After bleeding my brakes, the brakes feel high and by depressing a little the brakes will bite. Flushing the brake fluid, commonly called bleeding the brakes, gets rid of the air. To bleed car brakes, suck the old brake fluid out with a turkey baster and refill it with new fluid. I just threw that out there to say everything that could be wrong if you have spongy brakes. Air-Cooled. July 29, 2005 I had the same trouble with the spongy front brakes after I installed braided lines,I started by bleeding the master cylinder with a vacuum pump then I bled one side then the other side several times always make sure to keep the master cylinder filled or you will have to bleed the master cylinder again. I am not sure but i think that i read something about bleeding the ABS system, then rebleeding the brakes it was posted on here about someone that had to replace the master cylinder he bench bled the master cylinder, mounted it, then bled the brakes in the proper order & still had no brakes, much the same as you. From what little information I can find regarding Clara or Louise brakes, I understand that these older brakes have only one (1) active piston (I think the inner one supposed to be inactive and permanently placed almost. I saw some video on YouTube where they mentioned that if the bike has combined or ABS brakes that you should take it to the dealer as the ABS pump needs a special program to be run in order to successfully bleed the ABS side. :neutral: The brakes will feel high and firm one day, then another day they will be low and soft. It's impossible not to lose a little brake fluid during a line replacement. Where possible I much prefer to use a pressure bleeding tool to bleed brakes than relying on pumping the pedal as it seems to be a far more effective (and time saving) way to force all of the air out of the brake lines. from ABS- ABS has its own lines and valving-Base brakes bleeding instructions never mention Tech II. Skip to Main Content. After several bleedings I was still getting tiny air bubbles,but I had brakes. I have a 99' honda civic LX. I took the bike to the shop today to have a minor service and as expected he recommended to bleed the brake line. My rear brake has been spongy for about a year now. When we do the front ones, the pedal sinks to the floor. Soft brake pedal after full brake job, mechanic stumped If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. At least this time the car feels like its stopping. Any imput is greatly appreciated. After that bleed as normal with one person on the pedal and one at the wheel. after fitting the new lines i bled the car in the sequence given (rl, rr, fr, fl) however now my brakes are spongy, the first press and the pedal goes almost to the floor but if you pump them fast the pedal gets incresed pressure. Air in the line will cause the exact symptom you're experiencing and bleeding the brakes is relatively cheap. If that doesn't work, I would suspect a bad seal inside the master cylinder. Here's what happened. I would imagine that they bled it but I cant say for sure. If not attended to quickly, even more, critical problems may arise. The garage tested them and said that they were fine (but then they would, wouldn't they) I think they could do with bleeding. I had a real good firm pedal but as soon as I start the engine the pedal goes soft. So I changed all rotors and pads and also replaced the two rear calipers, followed by bleeding the system. Now repeat this test with the rear brake. RE: bleeding brakes IP: Logged Message: ran out of fluid in tank. s bleed master (uses a. New front lines, pads, rotors, rear shoes, rear cylinders, drums, springs, adjusters, and levers have all been changed. Neo - It has got discs on the back, have you any ideas? (the back brakes also seize solid after it's been left for a week or so - even with the handbrake left off - the van will hardly move to start with, but after about a mile of burning brakes they free off fully). It has a spongy feel. Off the top of my heads, I can only think of one other reason for spongy brakes after a pad swap (I'm assuming your calipers are fine) - and that is brake fade, which would be dependant on the pads used in. Haven't bled the ABS or accumulator yet. So new pads and discs (rotors) still the same. Its important that your son HOLD the brake pedal down after it drops (it will drop when you open the bleeding nipple) UNTIL you close the nipple and say OK. At this point I'm thinking it might either be the master cylinder or the calipers that are at fault. They feel very powerful and easy to modulate. I had this problem myself where the brakes still felt spongey after numerous bleeds around all the callipers. Spongy brakes—also described as squishy or mushy brakes—can cause big trouble if not addressed right away with a brake inspection and service. When engine is off - a couple of pumps and the pedal is hard. tube into a clear tube with fluid- just go through gallons of fluid!. The Car needed new front brakes and rotors so I took it to a VW mechanic in my area. By continuing to use this site you consent to the use of cookies on your device as described in our cookie policy unless you have disabled them. Before getting the booster replaced, try simply bleeding the brakes. On second thought, maybe I have pumped the brakes up before breaking the screw loose. Spongy Front Brake Lever after bleeding « Reply #22 on: January 17, 2013, 10:52:54 am » Just to get clarification, I thought I heard of someone making a temp reservoir cover with a nipple on it for the mighty vac and if you create a vacuum with it it would force the air bubbles to be sucked out of the closed system. I don't see any visable leaks and the master cylinder is full. The pedal is a good bit softer than it was before the new master cylinder. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. Recently it failed inspection due to the brakes. However after 1 month, the brakes become low again. They are still working fine, but I am thinking that the brake fluid must surely be starting to degrade by now. When the calipers were removed for other work it freed up some of the stuck brakes. The brakes work, just not as well as I need them to. So I bought a used bike recently and the guy that I bought it from said that the brakes were spongy and need new brake lines. The Car needed new front brakes and rotors so I took it to a VW mechanic in my area. I do a yearly brake bleed on 3 cars (my stang and 2 Olds). First things fist; The master cylinder was replaced back in '07, and the RABS valve was just replaced a year ago. I've replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, all 4 pads and rotors, bled the brakes more times than I can count, ABS bleed at least 10 times. Rule#1, never release brake pedal with line or bleeder open, never let master cyl reservoir get less than half full. at The Morgan Experience. Plus, it can turn into slippery mess rather quickly. If your brakes are simply spongy, or get progressively stronger after a few lever pulls, this quick fix is for you. I have heard that changing the brake fluid and bleeding the lines helps my brakes be more sharper and less spongy but my receipt from the brake job indicates that they did change the brake fluid and did bleed the lines!? so im wondering whether i should take it to toyota instead and ask them to bleed the line and change the brake fluid or just. Need some helps from you experts. Re: Very weak and spongy brakes on 2006 T1N 3500 Spongy brakes update: I replaced the master cylinder today, and the brakes are back to normal! Process was messy but simpler than expected, especially with the inexpensive master cylinder bleeding kit which allowed me to bench bleed the cylinder on the van easily. Finally got around to bleeding brakes. I had a similar experience with my 2005 Passat 2. I've had the brakes inspected by a local independent that is very good with brakes and he bled them but is not happy with them either. Kudos to Wilde Toyota in SE WI for doing a great job on my. I tried to bleed the brakes, but my right front caliper bleed screw decided it was not going to come out, period. Spongy brakes, they replaced the master cylinder and still spongy. Brake shoes need adjusting. Hopefully, the solution is something as simple as bleeding the brakes. Brakes are spongy after Line Lock install This is a discussion on Brakes are spongy after Line Lock install within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I installed a SJM Line Lock on my Trans Am and now the brakes are spongy when the car is. You just keep pumping the brake pedal about 10-15 times, refill the master cylinder, then repeat. whilst the fluid is being expelled. com (slotted and dimpled rotors) i still had no idea why my calipers keep overheating then sticking. Remove the wheel from the affected caliper. How to Bleed ABS Module without Scan Tool Step #1: Getting Ready After confirming that your car needs bleeding by following the two steps above, park the vehicle on a flat surface. The brake pedal is still very spongy after we've bled it at least 5 times in the last 3 days. A closeup of the expander removed from the vehicle. The pedal is a good bit softer than it was before the new master cylinder. When bleeding, the fluid can bypass the bubble and flow clear out of your bleeder overflow tube. Using a pressure bleeder can draw out the brake fluid too fast an cause you to loose the pedal all together. If either brake isn't working properly, it's likely to be a result of slack in the cable – unless your bike has hydraulic brakes, in which case they probably need 'bleeding' to remove air bubbles. I went on to bleed the brake system and it will build pressure but wont hold it. Didn't even change the hoses, just did a straight bleed during a brake job. Just bled by brakes and still spongy? i just bled my brakes but they are still a little spongy, i used the two man technique, and the brakes get hard when the car is off, but when its on they sink and go spongy, is there still air in the system or what??. Super soft brakes now almost like I'm only running on back brakes. All it takes is to not bleed the brakes well enough then the air travels back all the way to the master cylinder and theres no way to get it out with normal bleeding. I drove like about 10-15 miles and it still the same. Without knowing your vehicle's make and model, I can only offer general. Hello all I have the same problem as reported in post 6461, namely, hard brake pedal with engine off and spongy pedal with engine on. Air trapped in the lines, calipers or wheel cylinders will make the pedal feel soft and spongy. Hi all, I have just replaced the front pads on my 2010 XF 3. So you still have trapped air. Spongy when running. Air in the brake line(s) is the most common cause of a soft brake pedal. We may replace the master then on to the slave, then the caliper and “Oh, not the ABS. If you find that the pedal is still soft after the normal bleed procedure then you should take the car out for a test ride during which you will purposely cause the ABS to activate. the pedal never got hard it stayed spongy. So you still have trapped air. You have someone pump the brakes 3 times, at 3 they should hold it down, at 3 open the bleeder valve (which lets all the air bubbles out), then close the valve, tell them to feel the brakes again and if hard enough then that side is fine, then you go to the next. Air in the brake line(s) is the most common cause of a soft brake pedal. I have had brake issues on a class c 93 gulf stream conquest 350 with a 460 when braking the fronts will lock up and the back doesn't seam like it is doing any thing also some times the pedal will almost go the floor, I replaced the master and the fronts and it still is spongy, my next thought is to bleed the whole system and try again?. Spongy brakes after front pad install I put on new front pads this afternoon (Axxis Ultimates) and now the brakes feel a lot less firm than before. I examined the calipers and wheel cylinders and there are no leaks in the system. I agree with RickAKATed10. Brake fluid absorbs water if exposed, so the systems are to remain sealed. Soft brake pedal after full brake job, mechanic stumped If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. Pretty much all modern cars, not just BMWs and MINIs, have ABS brakes, traction control or both. During this process I broke a sensor on the pass side Im assuming it was abs. Fill brake master cylinder reservoir to proper level with DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Start car, Mushy pedal. Hey all, I got a 2000 S10 Blazer 4x4, 4. Without knowing your vehicle's make and model, I can only offer general. after fitting the new lines i bled the car in the sequence given (rl, rr, fr, fl) however now my brakes are spongy, the first press and the pedal goes almost to the floor but if you pump them fast the pedal gets incresed pressure. I did not replace that sensor. Check booster for a defective push rod seal. Off the top of my heads, I can only think of one other reason for spongy brakes after a pad swap (I'm assuming your calipers are fine) - and that is brake fade, which would be dependant on the pads used in. NOTE: When Air can get into the brake system and cause a spongy brake pedal when any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or installation of new components. Bleeding your brakes helps assure proper operation of the brakes and restores the protective properties of the brake fluid. My rear brake has been spongy for about a year now. Except that now, despite the new pads all around, the brake pedal still feels spongy and low. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Follow along with Zip Corvette Parts: Corvette brake bleeding techniques and you’ll not only be quick off the line but even quicker when it comes bringing it to a halt. I have heard that changing the brake fluid and bleeding the lines helps my brakes be more sharper and less spongy but my receipt from the brake job indicates that they did change the brake fluid and did bleed the lines!? so im wondering whether i should take it to toyota instead and ask them to bleed the line and change the brake fluid or just. None of the wheel cylinders is leaking. FORD EDGE 2011 problem was reported in CRYSTAL LAKE, IL. When you release the pedal again it goes back to the normal spongy brake feeling. The method im doing on my kawasaki gt550 is:. Bleeding the brakes, while a pain in the arse, helped quite a bit. Broke a bleed valve on one so I got new calipers. Takes maybe 1 hour for the DIY person and dealership time for bleeding the system. This didn’t help. You have to start bleeding right hand side rear wheel first if your car is a LHD ( left hand drive) thn you come to the rear left side thn to the front side and last to the front left side. , make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly. I replaces the front brake pads on my 98 civic and I noticed I had spongy brakes afterward. I found however, that a trip to Leadville, Colorado (elevation 10,152) will remove excess air from a system using Silicone fluid. Then after you are done bleeding it and the system is back sealed up, then zipty. Brakes underwent a heavy duty bench bleed after a standard bleed wasn't working, master cylinder was replaced, new brake pads, control rotor. Hi guys, This is somehow related to my post --> 240bucks Brake Pad Change So after changing the shoe and pads, my brake pedal seems to be spongy. Bleeding the brakes after brake components have been replaced is a step you don’t want to skip if you want a firm brake pedal. Hi, i replaced the rear rotors and pads and usually you pump the pedal afterward and the pedal get stiffer again. Fill the reservoir. Symptoms of a bad master cylinder include leaking fluid, fading pedal and bad brake fluid. I bought a 97' Big Bear several months ago. After bleeding at least something else also corrected. They engage when the pedal is about half way down and stop the truck fine but the pedal travels too far before engaging. After job was complete the brake pedal was soft?? Almost like the master cyl. Sometimes it will work perfectly, and then other times it seems like you end up with a lot of air in the brake system. I have never had the ABS or car on while bleeding, and I always did RR LR RF LF order after flushing most of what is in resoviour thru the LF caliper. Brake pedal is still soft even after bleeding brakes, releasing all air bubbles. Hey all, I got a 2000 S10 Blazer 4x4, 4. Before getting the booster replaced, try simply bleeding the brakes. You have done well so far in replacing all the parts and bleeding the brakes. No, there is a bleeder valve your supposed to open, not dis-connect the line itself. This allows the ceramic pads to handle higher brake temperatures with less heat fade, and provide faster recovery after the heavy braking. The fluid coming out is clear and without bubbles on all corners. How to look after your disc brakes. The pedal may feel more like normal after repeatedly pressing and releasing it. The problem came back after both times from the mechanic. He said the brakes feel normal, but I refuse to believe they are "normal". If your brakes exhibit excessive lever throw or spongy feel, perform the following steps before bleeding the system: 1. Anyway I fell like Ive kinda exhausted my knowledge on the matter, please help!!!. Only saw a few bubbles in the beginning and after that, it was solid fluid. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps: 21. Soft brake pedal after full brake job, mechanic stumped If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. One of the things I've heard of is jacking the rear as high as possible before attempting to bleed. Brake fluid is the only thing that should be in the brake lines. Mercedes-Benz C-Class: Why is My Brake Pedal Soft? Your braking system uses fluid pressure to create friction between your brake pads and rotors, slowing down your vehicle. Took it back. My front two brake lines have been disconnected from my front calipers for the last week because I was doing some work on the front suspension. That way I would know for sure if it's the abs module not working correctly or bleeding pressure somehow. I decided to replace the master cylinder. Furthermore, pads are all close to drum now, unlike previously. spongy brakes even after bleeeding. Also tapped the master cylinder thinking it will free up any bubbles in the hose or bottom of the master cylinder. Let’s explore four major causes of spongy brakes with the experts of Mantrans. The antilock brakes could have an issue with the control valves if fluid was pushed backwards through it while compressing the calipers. Installation Steps After installing new brake pads, rotors, calipers or brake lines, you need to be sure your car's hydraulic braking system is air-free. : I got a 98 4 chev tahoe, had soft brakes when I got it. After about 2000 miles the brake pedal would go all they the way to the floor before it would stop the truck. Learn more about the most common brake issues and their solutions, here. I took the bike to the shop today to have a minor service and as expected he recommended to bleed the brake line. Soft brakes after installing a new master cylinder I just put in a brand new master cylinder today and bled out all the lines. I see riders on all makes/models with clutch and brake fluid which is dark brown like Coca-Cola. I bled my brakes and that didn't help. In some circles, bench bleeding is considered an old-school step that isn’t really necessary these days. Low pedal - goes to floor, soft brakes. It is likely that the reservoir went dry and sucked air into the system. I already had an adjustable proportioning valve installed. Go very slowly on the bleeding as well, it's very easy to get even a slight whiff of air in there. Hello there. This will shuttle the by-pass differential valve and allow fluid to flow through the by-pass line. You have to start bleeding right hand side rear wheel first if your car is a LHD ( left hand drive) thn you come to the rear left side thn to the front side and last to the front left side. From what little information I can find regarding Clara or Louise brakes, I understand that these older brakes have only one (1) active piston (I think the inner one supposed to be inactive and permanently placed almost. Re: Soft pedal after bleeding i should clarify, it doesn't actually go all the way to the floor. Be sure to bleed all wheels, then cause the ABS system to come on and crawl back and do it all again and this time when you think its all clear of air, brake and keep the brake at pressure, use a block of wood between brake pedal and steering wheel, measure the distance between the pedal and steering wheel, let sit 2 hours then re-measure, did. The 6 pot Tokico's are notoriously difficult to bleed correctly for a firm lever. So you still have trapped air. I bled my brakes and that didn't help. Hello all, As the title suggests I am struggling with my rear brake system. So I have replaced almost everything on the brake system. I have replaced all rotors and pads. How to replace brake master cylinder. If you forget to bleed your brakes, you can end up with a soft brake pedal and/or too much pedal travel. discovered huge amounts of air in the rear lines, along with ugly looking fluid. Worn Brake Pads: Your brakes should never wear low enough to cause your brake pedal to feel low, they'll scream at you before then. ever since i have had my 99 K1500 obs the brake pedal has felt soft but after i replaced everything except the abs module the brakes are even worse and barley stop the truck. I found however, that a trip to Leadville, Colorado (elevation 10,152) will remove excess air from a system using Silicone fluid. I didn't bench bleed the MC before refitting I just connected it back up, filled it and bled the system as follows: N/S R - O/F R - N/S F - O/S F. More than likely you have a brake hose that is nearing the failure point (beginning to bulge when you press the pedal) or you have some trapped air in the system. Afterward I expected the brakes to be "like new" (ha!) - the brake pedal was soft, mushy and pulsed. felt normal till the pads engaged and then spongy. A3 Brakes Spongy After New Pads, Discs & Multiple Bleeds. Bleeding Brakes The hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected or air gets into the system. Finally got around to bleeding them and I saw some air bubbles leave the system while doing so. Air in the brake line(s) is the most common cause of a soft brake pedal. I can pump up the pedal after 3 pushes. No air was introduced into the system since I kept the resevoir full. if you hold. You can do what you want with the soda bottle and straw, but close the nipple before he lets up on the brake pedal. The pedal is a good bit softer than it was before the new master cylinder. tube into a clear tube with fluid- just go through gallons of fluid!. Are the rears drum brakes? I had a similar sounding issue with mine (also after a brake overhaul). I bled the hell out of the brakes anyways after the work and ran a lot of fluid through the system at all 4 corners. It almost feels like you're stepping on a sponge. (SRAM recommends bleeding hydraulic disc brakes every six months. 99% of your problem should be to properly bleed your brakes to remove air. Then I hear ABS motor and pressure decrease by about 50%. If your brakes exhibit excessive lever throw or spongy feel, perform the following steps before bleeding the system: 1. None of the wheel cylinders is leaking. When the pedal is released, air can be drawn past the weakened seal. I didn't bench bleed the MC before refitting I just connected it back up, filled it and bled the system as follows: N/S R - O/F R - N/S F - O/S F. If air gets into the lines, it can prevent the fluid from flowing properly, causing the brake pedal to feel spongy. I just threw that out there to say everything that could be wrong if you have spongy brakes. 0 qts of brake fluid BEFORE the brakes can be evaluated for proper functioning. Spongy pedal after rear brake job - EricTheCarGuy- Stay Dirty! Ericthecarguy. , make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly. If following correct bleeding of the brakes you still get a sinking pedal then suspect number 2) above. Top Power Brake Booster Questions. A mechanic informed me that the brake pads were worn down. bleeding austin healey 4 wheel drum brakes Posted on 21, August2017 by Michael Adjusting the brakes and getting all the air out of the hydraulic brake system to produce a “hard” pedal can be particularly difficult when dealing with the all drum systems of 100 and 100/6 Austin Healeys. Causes Of A Spongy Brake. Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. One of the things I've heard of is jacking the rear as high as possible before attempting to bleed. Do NOT pump the brake pedal, this only puts air back into the system. I got them tightened and also the brake pads were changed, but the problem recurred soon after (i. Well after poking around on the web I read that without the scan tool you have to remove the two sm. I had a squishy pedal on my 03 Sequoia. The brake pedal is low and spongy. I use a pressure bleeder. Who is correct?. Previous Page | Next Page. ABS brake bleeding - soft brake pedal now On my '03 Jetta w/ABS, I did a simple pad, rotor and e-brake cable replacement this weekend and thought it was a good time to bleed the whole brake system. Unfortunately, the fluid in the reservoir ran out while I was bleeding. Fill the reservoir. One of the most common causes of soft or mushy braking is air in brake fluid. i had a rear caliper over-extend on my 03 and lose fluid. you'll need to replace that. At this point I'm thinking it might either be the master cylinder or the calipers that are at fault. the pedal never got hard it stayed spongy. If the brakes are soft or spongy, this is a good time to change or flush the brake fluid. It is best to use a pressure bleeder. The rear should be easy. I don't think this is a job you want to tackle and very few guys do. After changing my brake pads my brake pedal was very soft. There are no air bubbles in the brakes pipes, i bled the front left 1st, rear right 2nd, front right 3rd and rear left last. Should I think about bleeding the brakes or upgrading to a better master cylinder. If you have a spongy or soft brake pedal, what is it telling you about your brakes? Should you be concerned? If there are problems with the brake fluid, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, brake calipers, or brake lines and hoses, this could result in a spongy brake pedal and possibly a dangerous situation. Off the top of my heads, I can only think of one other reason for spongy brakes after a pad swap (I'm assuming your calipers are fine) - and that is brake fade, which would be dependant on the pads used in. Yeah, so i know how to bleed the brakes. There is either air still in the brake lines or potentially a bigger problem at stake like a potential vacuum leak in the brake booster. I called Honda and they will be bleeding the ABS modulator using a scan tool in a few days. I bled the brakes after doing "bench bleeding", which was not the real bench bleeding: I left the MC on the car but unscrewed the connector on top of MC, blocked with a stud; replacing the one on the side with a bleeding connector and a plastic tube. The 6 pot Tokico's are notoriously difficult to bleed correctly for a firm lever. - Answered by a verified GMC Mechanic. When bleeding brakes, you should start with the one nearest to the master cylinder reservoir then proceed to the next nearest, and the next until the final wheel furthest away from the master cyl. Mileage was 68000 miles. It feels like about 1" or so of travel before you can tell the truck is braking. I had spongy brakes, on 2013 edge. Soft brakes after installing a new master cylinder I just put in a brand new master cylinder today and bled out all the lines. I had a friend pump the brakes and used Landtanks sequence method (RR, LR, LSPV, RF, LF). Maybe after riding it done I will be able to bleed it out. Spongy brakes AGAIN. Another questions is , is after reading the 4runner forum and was trying to try the air bleeding from techstream. If your brake pedal does not maintain a firm and responsive feeling, a problem is present and your vehicle may not stop in a safe amount of time. I recently purchased a 1998 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab pickup. The antilock brakes could have an issue with the control valves if fluid was pushed backwards through it while compressing the calipers. There are tons of different ways to do this and everyone has their own method they like to use. The key had to be in the run position when bleeding the brakes due to the ABS system. help please with vu brakes spongy after bleed Discussion in 'VT Do a google search on 'Bleeding ABS brakes' I have just had a search and there are lots of. If your brakes exhibit excessive lever throw or spongy feel, perform the following steps before bleeding the system: 1. I replaced the fronts a few weeks ago, brakes worked fine. That's why a soft, spongy-feeling brake pedal that doesn't resist pressure and goes straight to the floor is a common sign that something's gone wrong in your brake system. after replacing the discs and pads, (Brembo discs + aftermarket pads) ,now some problem with spongy brakes - large movement in the pedal before anything happens. If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the automated bleeding procedure. I had my buddy that works for Toyota look at it. Spongy Brakes T1N Talk. I've got an 03 Z71 with the JC3 brake code. Any ideas? Oh yeah! I have replaced the pcv valve that goes from the intake to the booster as well. Bleed at the bleeder screws, furthest wheel from the master cylinder first. Brakes spongy after bleeding? Not sure why my brakes are still spongy and unresponsive. I use a pressure bleeder. So what youre saying is to disconnect one line @ a time from the proportioning valve and pump the brakes/ open and close the valve the same way I would at each wheel and this would count for bleeding the MC. I had this problem myself where the brakes still felt spongey after numerous bleeds around all the callipers. He said the brakes feel normal, but I refuse to believe they are "normal". You need to bleed your brakes. Has worked well on many occasions for me when i've trouble with bleeding brakes. Was the pedal spongy before you changed the pads? If no, then the problem isn't in bleeding. Other question would be is why were you bleeding them in the first place? Were they spongy already? Hope this helps. But if you're not handy with tools it's best to have a professional change the brake fluid for you. I had the same problem. the pedal never got hard it stayed spongy. 74 corvette. Finally got around to bleeding them and I saw some air bubbles leave the system while doing so. if you hold. (Bleeding the brakes uses fluid to push air out of the brake system. Bleed the brakes in the order listed in your repair information, in this case: left rear, right rear, left front and right front. After the 2nd round, they were better, but not great - I still can't lock the brakes even if I stab the pedal. When the pedal is released, air can be drawn past the weakened seal. did not like the first three-four pump ups to build somewhat pressure. this will sort out the spongy pedal, thats if theres no leaks etc. Also, when bleeding all 4 brakes I used a 1/4 inner diameter clear hose and a zip tie just in case air was getting into the little cracks between the hose and the bleeder screw. The pedal firmed up for about a week and now it's back to having to push it almost all the way down to get the truck to stop. Wouldn't a bad booster make the brake pedal harder to push down and not soft? I'm thinking after I check the vac line to the booster, I'll probably go ahead and bleed the brakes only because it has never been done (approx 65k on the car). I bought a 97' Big Bear several months ago. They feel very powerful and easy to modulate. Back brakes operating nice and sharp / firm after bleeding. Might be a brake hose too, clamp the rear hose and test them again. brakes spongy after changing discs and pads? 07-02-14, 09:12 as above done this yesterday to my astra h. Soft brake pedal after full brake job, mechanic stumped If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. Vehicle is a '93 GXL 80 series turbo diesel with ABS. Cables and housing are also susceptible to rust, dirt, and debris buildup that can bind the braking system. At this rate, i have about 50 miles on my new brake pads and rotors. I have heard that changing the brake fluid and bleeding the lines helps my brakes be more sharper and less spongy but my receipt from the brake job indicates that they did change the brake fluid and did bleed the lines!? so im wondering whether i should take it to toyota instead and ask them to bleed the line and change the brake fluid or just. i see the brake booster was replaced once under a owner notification program which technically isn't a recall but it is something ford provides as a customer. Thanks for the post. Brakes felt spongey (no anti lock feel) and the pedal went almost to the floor. I had the same problem. They said they would look into. Re: Soft pedal after bleeding i should clarify, it doesn't actually go all the way to the floor. Always do RR, LR, RF, then LF. If your brakes are simply spongy, or get progressively stronger after a few lever pulls, this quick fix is for you. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge. Brake fluid is the only thing that should be in the brake lines. 8L 4 motionafter replacing a rear caliper and bleeding brakes I could no get a decent brake pedal (really spongy) I was so frustrated that I took it to a VW "expert" shop which does only VW and Audi's only and is owned by a former dealer's top mechanic.